Phase One: Summit Climb on Mount Mansfield

Entry From "East Side Dave" Kline's Mountain Journal...

11/25/07

Winter climb to summit of Mount Mansfield, Vermont's highest peak.

The climbing party was a trio; Dominique Ulrich, Butch Ulrich, Dave Kline

Our base of operations for this climb is Smuggler's Notch base village which is situated perfectly in the notch to be used as the starting point for any number of fabulous outdoor and "off-piste" or "off-the-beaten-path" adventures.

We set out for the push to summit under very cloudy conditions.  Breakfast is a home-baked fruit bread from the Krebs' homemade wood-fired oven. (Home baked bread and tea on the morning of a climb is a traditional breakfast all over the world!) 

Visibility is poor.  Temps were 27 F at the base lodge, and 20 F at the summit, with 15 to 20 MPH winds which yielded a wind chill temp at the summit of about 0 F. It was cold up there! We cannot see the summit.

Took alpine skis to base of final climb and then hid them and the ski boots in the woods.  Changed into climbing boots and gear, put on the packs and began the push to the summit.  Immediately encountered deep snow, up to four feet, which meant we had to post-hole, (shove a foot into the next step up the mountain...sink in...pull out that foot and do it again with the other foot; amazingly draining, especially at altitude).

We took turns leading the post holing and trail blazing, each helping the other in and out of the holes and up over outcrops of icy rocks as needed.  Each serving as a human belay as needed on the steeper sections where snow and ice slowed progress to a crawl; literally to a crawl as some sections became easier to crawl over rather than try to stand upright.  Imagine swimming uphill over deep snow and ice and rocks and scrub trees with a full pack and climbing poles. This is how the early part of the climb went until we hit the ridge line.

After an hour or so of the grind almost straight up the fall line of the mountain, we hit the ridge line, (the place where the east and west side of the mountain join and form the ridgeline of the mountain over which the famous Long Trail traverses.  In winter there are almost no trail blazes of cairns or signs to keep you on course to the summit...you must use teamwork and dead-reckoning and everyone should agree as to proper direction and orientation, especially in cloudy conditions.

Once we reached the ridge, we felt the full power of winter as the winds blasted us. We tried to stay to the east of the ridgeline so as to protect ourselves somewhat from the wind.  It was an effective strategy.  There were some cold feet and fingers, but this could be overcome by exerting more energy...more speed into the climb itself.

Around noon the clouds began whipping over the summit, literally just inches above our heads.  Then a break and the sun came out which allowed us to see the summit for the first time in the climb.  This helped with dead reckoning and orientation.  That was the good news.  The bad news was that we were south of the summit and there were at least four sizeable climbs and descents along the ridge between us and the summit which was about 1 mile away at that point.

Up and down we climbed, over the rime ice and hoar frost...ice, snow, rocks...what a starkly beautiful scene! It was winter up there, the mountains were in all of their glory and we were the only souls in sight!  There were no other footprints.  No one had preceded us to the summit since at least the last big snow storm.

As we navigated up and down we joked about the fact that we could not have selected a more difficult route to the summit. Somehow the perverse challenge that we stuck ourselves with made the effort all the more worthwhile.  (Thank goodness for six weeks and over a thousand miles of walking and cycling leading up to this climb.  There's nothing like "wellness" but even at that, at altitude, there is less oxygen and human bodies do strange things.  We watch each other to be certain that no one is falling prey to any number of physical climbing traps.)

After a very long and cold traverse along the ridge, we reach the summit and stand on it for a quick photo...sheltering ourselves in between photos behind a tiny ridge of rock that protects us from the wind blasts.  It is brutally cold up on the actual summit and having fingers out of gloves for photos produces instant frost bite and stinging pain.  We were not too much into additional pain and frostbite, bad enough all ten toes of mine have fallen victim to permanent damage from frostbite on a previous winter adventure.

So...after weeks of training and hours of climbing to reach our goal, we stay on the actual summit no more than 8 minutes before turning back to retrace our steps and get out of there! 

As we descend, we can feel the effects of damp clothing and cold.  It is interestingly harsh and physically tough until we reach a place where we can duck off of the ridgeline and descend further out of the wind. 

As we continue to descend through the back country of the wild woods on Mount Mansfield's eastern flank, the sun, which had begun to set while we were on the summit, does set in the west and only the high peaks are bathed in the day's after glow.  I look to my left...to the east...and point out that the mountains are aflame with what mountaineers call the "alpenglow."  It is a fantastic light show of evening color reflecting off of the snow on the mountain tops.  Pink, purple, yellow...colors that you cannot easily manufacture.  This is the work of the Creator.  It is magnificent and part of why climbing is worthwhile. 

There we were...our three person team...success at the summit...we got to commune with one of eastern North America's most gorgeous peaks and she allowed us to get to her most private realm.

Dusk is upon us as we reach the huts at the upper portion of the actual Stowe ski resort on the lower portion of part of Mount Mansfield.  We wearily change some gear around; climbing boots off...in the packs...ski boots (VERY COLD SKI BOOTS) crammed back onto our feet.  We conduct, one last check to be sure that everyone has their game face on before the final schuss to the base lodge.  We remind each other that most climbing and skiing accidents happen at the end of the day, on the final descent, when a person's guard is left down because the anticipation of the effort being over is very strong.  You must however, focus on every nuance of what you're doing on the final descent.  You must pay attention to every foot of terrain and stay focused because it's not over until it's over and you're standing in the parking lot or base camp and looking back to the summit which now seems very far away. 

We kick into our bindings and let the skis rip over the fabulous snow and ice finishing the adventure on a ski run called "LORDS WAY" ... how fitting!  Namaste!  Karma!  A blessing!

And then, safely at the base of the mountain, with my own personal inner alpenglow shining brightly, I congratulate my fellow team members with words, and hugs, and realize that we've shared a very special moment in our lives together. As a team we've accomplished something that is truly a once in a lifetime happening. No one and nothing can ever take that moment in time away from us.

Climbing is truth...you set a goal, work a plan in manageable increments and proceed with a fierce, internal desire to succeed. Then you either get there or you don't, but that's up to you, your teammates and good old mother nature. 

Choose your partners well and carpe diem...seize the day! 

Unless you are remarkably lucky, anything worthwhile in life comes as the result of a combination of careful planning, hard work, inspiration, dedication, exhilaration and relaxation.   Happy holidays to all!

"East Side Dave" Kline

11/26/07 - personal mountain journal entry

photos from iPhone posted in scrapbook section

"East Side Dave" Kline is the Producer and Host of the weekly, syndicated Mountain Folk Radio & Web Show & Apple iTunes Podcast and the leader of The Mountain Folk Band.  The show has been on the air for over 25 years, and is devoted to presenting all aspects of mountain culture including skiing, hiking, lodging, food, folk traditions, outdoor recreation, arts, and music in the bluegrass, old-time, outdoor-themed, alpine, Appalachian and acoustic mountain music style.

Email: mtnfolk@aol.com

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